A Fish out of the Sea

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 i woke up yesterday morning and started to exercise.  after 100 pushups, my eye started throbbing and felt like it was going to pop out!   i guess it’s telling me that i’m not ready for that yet.  so i decided to do something that will use less energy.   i went to Sandy Beach and let the Speedster fly!   Freedom!!! stopped by Carter’s house to check out his new toy.  so dam cute!!! there is a very big engine and transmission in this car.  i could keep the back tires spinning out of control throughout all 4 gears!  i feel like James Bond!  driving by the ocean is usually therapeutic for me.  but since i can’t enter it, it’s freaking torture!     came back home and washed the truck.  then took a nap and rested my eye.  can’t wait this nightmare is over!  for now, i can only polish my foils up and get them ready for my debut back into the sea.  once my doctor says it’s ok, you won’t see me on land for a while…

but for now, i’m like a fish out of the sea…  torture….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide