Toda-san was towing me out into the deep blue where the biggest of the tiger sharks roam. there is a big wave out there and if you time it right, you can foil the wave of your life. Takami-san shooting photos, Toda-san driving, and i let go the rope and pump into the biggest wave i’ve ever foiled. was going down the face so fast that my foil couldn’t handle the turbulence and flipped over. and of course, me too!
i didn’t have a leash so my board went all the way in. swimming all alone with only one eye, i remembered that this is the place they call Tiger Shark Country. was i scared? to be honest, a little. haha…
i just ordered another foil that’s specialized for big waves. once i get it, i’m going straight back out there and trying again!
been teaching this kid how to surf and enjoy the ocean for many years now. but recently, i seen a really big change. Aoi-kun’s super connected with the ocean now and looks confident, cool, and calm. that is my ultimate goal because from now on, this kid can do it on his own. he probably can even save a life in the meantime…
so cool to find a little surf point just for ourselves. no stress, no attitude, no locals, and no bullshit. this is what surfing is all about…
happy to be in the water with Takami-san too. it’s been 30 years of surfing together and enjoying the rides…
in the past 7 days, there have been 236 recorded thefts from Diamond Head to Kakaa’ko. can you freaking believe that??? all these dots represent a crime.
and this is just for theft! what’s happening to my island????
