Jack and Dom

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 everybody thought the water was going to be dirty this morning because of the heavy rain.  wrong!  Oshima-san and i paddled out and surfed in crystal clear ocean!   imaging being out at Ala Moana at 7:30am and not a single person around for miles.  we had the ocean all to ourselves and had a great time!   talking story, waiting for waves, and laughing the whole way.  happy ride, happier smile!  good job Oshima-san!  thank you and have a safe flight back to Japan you lucky man! the waves and rides were so nice!   if you know a little about tides, winds, and currents, you can find yourself either on the good side of the ocean, or the bad side of the ocean?   the left is good, the right is bad… we watched this guy paddle right by us straight to the dirtiest water at Bowls.  he had no idea he was surfing in polluted water, and we were surfing in clear ocean.  i actually felt sorry for him, but didn’t want him coming near us so kept quiet.  it’s a surfers kind of thing.  haha. thank you Oshima-san for the Jack and Dom.  can’t wait guys!   then went for a foil session this afternoon with my friends.  friends, foils, smiles, and happiness… was in Molokai following this car.  noticed something sticking out of the window? it was the drivers foot!  haha.  this car pulled over a few mile up the road and the girl driver got out of the car.  haha!  that’s so cool!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide