Old School Twin Fin Surfing

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 went under my house and found some old treasure.  this Mike Woo twin fin must be 20 years old?  so i dusted it off and took it to the beach.   surfed with Yamamoto-san and had a great time at Diamond Head.  great time because great guy and great waves!   omg, from my first wave, this board was magic!  reminded me of surfing back in the 1970’s even before the thruster was born.  Yamamoto-san was on the thruster driving off the bottom of wave after wave.   so stoked to capture this sequence.   this is confidence, focus, and determination.  look at this beautiful turn and beautiful photo!  this is perfect high performance surfing.  so happy to see Yamamoto-san surfing 5x better than last year.  good waves, good time!   then i let Yamamoto-san try my twin fin.  and i never got it back after that.  haha.  yes, we scored some good Diamond Head today.  wanted to say hello to Fukuda-san and all the boys at Step Ocean Sports!  poke for our lunch.  surf and poke.  nice combo!

surfed again this afternoon but can’t keep my eyes open.  goodnight for now…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide