Deep in Thailand: Forgotten…

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good morning. 6:30am and the waves looking fun. waist high clean waves at bowls with only a couple of guys out. north shore looks good again with a bunch of dawn patrollers at laniakea. looks head high and super fun. sunny skies and trade winds blowing making for another day in paradise. i’m going to find out exactly how much longer i have to stay out of the water today. if my doctor tells me another week, i’m going to seriously put on my diving mask and go catch a wave this evening. might look weird but i don’t care… anyway, have a nice day…

this is my eye doctor. his name is Dr. Camara. he’s been the one taking care of my eye. it’s so weird because i see him on tv commercials, newspapers, even on the cover. is he a singer too? i’m going in for an appointment now so i’ll ask him. maybe i’ll ask him to sing me a song to make my eye feel better….

since june, my poor car hasn’t been washed. gosh, i’ve just been to busy and don’t like paying $15 for somebody else to wash it when i could do it myself. so today, i took an hour and took care of my car that has been taking care of me. it’s so clean now that i don’t even want to drive it…

i just got some new license plates for my car. don’t ask why. but they told me to throw away my old ones. gosh, i can’t throw it away. they are kind of bust up but i bet somebody in japan wouldn’t mind having some hawaii license plates. i see the all over the place in japan so i guess people collect them. if anybody wants them, let me know before these go in a box under my house forever…
**and last, i have tons of video clip dating back to march 2008. so many to post with so little time. this is a short one of my thailand trip. the more i think about it, the more i laugh. why? i just think to myself that “that guy is crazy to go where nobody speaks english and where you don’t know what the heck your eating.” that guy is me… haha….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide