Hey Unko, You Made my Day!

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 omg!  if you look, you will find.  and look what we found this morning!  secret spot with empty barrels!   Nao-san feeling so comfortable and relaxed.  surfing better than ever! Takami-san’s been scoring some really good waves too.  and surfing really good as always!  Nao-san is very lucky.  she has a 1 surf coach, 2 cheerleaders, and 3 photographers following her.   so nothing is being missed… one photographer from the water, one from the land, and a drone from above.   i’ve never had that kind of media coverage in my whole life.  haha.  surfing overhead waves all by herself.  i just sit back, watch, and yell if she makes a mistake.  haha.   since we all wanted to eat meat, we went to eat the Filipino kind of meat.  this was my plate.  very cheap and very delicious.   then driving out to the North Shore.  a perfect day for that!  Toda-san and John Amundson.  somebody’s got a new toy??? then went to get a Tortoise Chai Green Tea.  it was so good! salute!   there were these girls at the beach laughing at me.  i looked at them and said “what you girls laughing at???”  come to find out, they were laughing at my glasses.  haha.  the girl said “Unko, you just made my day.”   happy to hear that girl.  haha…then we jumped in for round 2.  better waves and better rides.  another amazing day Nao-san!  you did great!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide