PoPs X 2

240

 after scoring so many good waves at Pop’s yesterday, we went straight back out there this morning.  Nakahodo-san had more waves and more flying.   i can’t believe how good Todasan got in just this past week!  i saw him do 3 nice cutbacks on this one wave.  then when he paddled back out, i told him “oh, i didn’t see your wave.”  haha… this is the perfect example on how to foil.  look forward and stay low! Nakahodo-san is getting good too!  by the end of this trip, he will be better than Toda-san.  haha.  just joking Todasan!   big smiles for the new foil bird!  it’s crazy how i feel like i’m air surfing these days.  the only thing is i don’t really need a wave.   just give me a small swell and i’ll surf it like i’m surfing a 5′ wave. isn’t Waikiki so beautiful!  i can’t believe how perfect this Summer has been so far… then passed by Diamond Head.  i asked Nakahodo-san if he wanted to take a break, then go surf it at sunset.  it will be much bigger, wilder, and crazier!  of course, he said yes… and yes, it turned out to be the best Diamond Head i’ve ever surfed.  thank you to the hurricane that sent us those 6′ groundswell waves.  so happy day!now it’s dinner time and i’m starving!  foods from Oki!  thank you Nakahodo-san!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide