super happy to surf with Atsushi-san today. super cool surfer from Tokushima, Shikoku that loves to surf, and loves Hawaii. we paddled out to Bowls and it was giant! 
when the waves get overhead, the scene out here changes. you got guys from the North shore, the West Side, and lots of professional legends coming out. the pecking order is then decided. i was so happy to see Mike Ho paddle out with the biggest smile like always. 
Atsushi-san likes to surf rights, but since Bowls lefts were super good, he was going left all morning. 
and flying down the line all the way to the inside. i couldn’t keep up with him. 
when Pipeline Master Mike Ho paddles out to any lineup, just sit back and watch this legend surf. if he paddles for a wave, don’t even paddle. it’s called surfers respect! 
i’ve known Mike Ho and his younger brother World Champion Derek Ho since i was a teenager. i surfed with these guys all over the North shore, South shore, and even in Japan. all good memories that i still remember so clearly. and i’ve seen this bottom turn hundreds of times from this angle. 
so i knew this was coming next! Mike turned 62 years old today so Happy Birthday dude. when i get 62 years old, i hope to be doing turns like this too. so inspired today…
then Derek Ho got barreled right after this. Derek always smiles and tells me how he still feels like a kid when he surfs. he wants to catch every wave and he’s earned that…
Atsushi-san wanted to eat an Acai Bowl so we went to the Cove Bar. we had the most hilarious conversations. i’m sure people in there were getting irritated at our loud laughing. haha. who cares…
want to thank Paul for giving me this ice cold Kava. my mouth was all numb and i was feeling so relaxed…
then ate this big pastrami sandwich and got my power back. i needed the power because right after this, i had to go straight back into the ocean! 
picked up Nakahodo-san and went flying. oh, i mean foiling…
