today was the biggest day of the year!!! huge surf and kind of dangerous too. took the boys out for the challenge of their lives! these are the days you get the ride of your life! 
we paddled out to Big Right’s and out here is locals only. it’s been this way for the past 40 years. the order in the lineup is rock solid and if you try to break the system, it will break you. that’s why i love it out here! 
i only wait for the biggest and best waves when i surf out here. so i told Shoda-san “when you see me paddle for a wave, drop in and you’ll get the ride of your life!” look at Shoda-san taking off on this huge set! 
this is one happy man! want to thank Garret Sugihara for giving Shoda-san a set wave too. he was so happy to get a wave from a local! anybody would be happy… 
after a few waves, Shoda-san figured it out. just sit a little inside of me, then when a big set comes, drop in and i’ll get the shot! just like this!!! one of the local boys said “wow, that’s cool!” 
there is no other way to get a set wave at Big Right’s if you’re a Japanese tourist. this is the only way. haha…
thank you Shoda-san and Hatta-san for a surfing with me at Big Right’s on Big Sunday! 
then went for a nice hot pho for lunch…
then went straight to pick up Yano-san. he wanted to surf big waves too so i took him to someplace even bigger! and on his very first wave, his leash came off. haha. keep calm Yano-san! 
omg, we scored! today was one of the most exciting days in a while. i forgot how good it feels to surf big waves, i forgot how good it feels to get barreled, and i forgot how happy surfing makes me feel. tomorrow i’m putting away my foil and getting out my surfboard quiver! it’s back to surfing for me so see you in the lineups!
