Bigger Burger and Sugar Rush

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 had my last session with Leo this morning.  just in the past few days, this kid got super good!  he’s a very good listener and everything i said, he did it as perfectly as possible.  the waves were kind of big for him so i taught him how to throw the board on the side and dive under waves.  he came up smiling every single time.  and when it was time to ride a set, no problem at all.  and even when it was time to fall, he fell to the side.  perfect!  and Leo even knew how to operate my camera too.  brilliant.   by the end of our session, i felt like i was surfing with a buddy… good job Leo!  i’m super proud of you!  forget the rice balls today, we went for Teddy’s Bigger Burger!   then as we were waiting for dessert, i was telling Leo how i use to eat packets of sugar and cream when i was a kid.  omg, i hope he doesn’t do that!   haha… Leonard’s Malasadas!  I’m glad you liked it!  i’m going to miss Leo.  i’m going to miss his smile, his laugh, his energy, his intelligence, and everything else.  keep calm buddy and see you next year!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide