Girls, Umeshu, and Shirasu…

191

 now that i’m back, i can rewind back 3 days and reminisce this wonderful early morning session with these 2 energetic girls!   Ryoko-san surfs in Vietnam and loves both surfing and Vietnam.  i think she loves Hawaii too now.  haha.  i was so happy watching her ride long beautiful waves! the sunrise, and the smile.  both golden moments…. Kie-san’s first time surfing and she did great!  very stable and very calm… and very happy too… towards the end of our session, i took Ryoko-san to the outside and watched her paddle into big sets!   i thought she would fall when the white wash caught up on her, but she maintained balance and rode it all the way to the end.  so stoked!   thank you girls for the wonderful morning session.  and thank you to Surf Shack in Vietnam for sending these girls my way.  i hope to surf in Vietnam with you guys someday.  and don’t be surprised if it’s pretty soon.  haha.   i’ve been waiting and waiting for this Umeshu to ripen.  it’s sitting on my counter and my mouth is watering every night.   custom made from Niwa in Tokyo.  thank you Yuri-san!   i’m ready to kanpai!   the best way to bring home fresh Yamari shirasu is in my board bag.  it always works…drove by Diamond Head and it’s looking like paradise!  only 2 days gone but i missed Hawaii a lot.  see you in the ocean…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide