Ocean Healing…

246

i walked down my wet stairs this morning and slipped!  my toe went right into the railing.  ouch!

after loading up the boards, i felt something wet.  ouch!

these Local Slippers cost $3 and when they get overused like this, it will slip when it’s wet.  i better get new ones…

the pain went away right when i turned into this rainbow.

the boys had Uncle Paul Teruya come and shoot them this morning.  Paul showed me some photos and they are so beautiful!  BUT, i don’t have a DVD drive???  omg!

i had my camera so managed to get a couple photos.  here is Yuki-kun at Bowls Right!

these kids were ripping!

Rio-kun riding on Bowls Left!  there was nobody out so we scored perfect Bowls!

when you’re lucky to surf one of the most packed spots in the world like Bowls with nobody out, you’re freaking lucky!

the boys caught 25 waves each.  so including my 5, we rode 55 waves!   good job boys!

and when i got out of the ocean, my cut was looking pretty good!  i was explaining to the kids how the ocean heals…  and this is proof!

the Aida-san family is such a wonderful family!   we’ve been surfing for years and years and happy to see the boys so calm and cool in the ocean.

and some Vietnam for lunch.  thanks guys!

three days in a row, three fires intentionally set at hotels in Waikiki.  first was the Alohilani Resort, then the Waikiki Beachcomber, then the Hilton Grand Waikikian last night.   some idiot set the fires, then when everybody was evacuating, he robbed their hotel rooms.  so stupid!  does this idiot know how many people can die if the fire spreads???  so hey, if you’re a tourist in Waikiki, sleep with your valuables, and when that fire alarm sounds, run out with your valuables.  it’s sad, but this is reality these days…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide