Round 1: Arai-san on day 2 Boot Camp. after the other big day, today was super easy for him. yes, it was bigger but when you’re calm, you will surf good no matter what.
Arai-san hasn’t surfed waves this big before. big and barreling! how cool is this photo?
then coming out and doing an off the lip! one of my friends was paddling out and said to me “wow, you should have seen how happy he was at the end of that wave.” haha.
Round 2: then Hattori-san tested out the short board. it’s been a while so it was pretty exciting.
a few good waves, and a few hundred duck dives. the waves wouldn’t stop pumping!
then went to pick up Seira-chan. yeah, she’s back! first stop, boba milk tea! haha.
welcome back girl! i’m super excited to surf with you for the next 45 days. you’re going to be at a professional level by the end of this Boot Camp!
Round 3: then surfed with Tokuda-san this evening. super cool guy that loves the ride!
Tokuda-san asked me “how many surfer friends do you have?” i told him “about a thousand. why? how many do you have?” he said “four.” i told him “well, now, you have five!”
Tokuda-san was a little scared of big waves. so i took him to big waves because this is how you overcome your fear. i taught him how to dive under sets and this is absolutely perfect! now he’s not scared anymore. simply done…
Seira-chan was out ripping. last time she came to Hawaii, it was cold, raining, and flat the whole time. this time will be much different. perfect weather and big swells on the horizon…
last time Seira-chan came to Hawaii, she met Kelia on her very first day. this time, same thing! i couldn’t believe how lucky this girl is! Kelia was so happy to see her too! and Seira-chan also got to see a crazy fist fight in the parking lot too! so lucky!
anyway, i surfed 3 rounds totaling 6 hours. still 8:30pm and didn’t eat dinner. so i’m tired, and very grouchy. better stay away from me. haha. goodnight.
