gosh, i forgot what the rain looked like??? it’s been absolutely sunny and perfect. so taking Yuzuki-chan out for some surf and photos was exciting. i know every young Japanese girl is wanting a perfect Instagram photo, so i try my best. and when you surf for your very first time in your life and succeed, it’s worth the memory. this girl was smiling the from start to finish… Papa Yoshida-san wanted to be able to share his surfing experiences with his daughter, and now that dream has come true. he was so happy when Yuzuki-chan said she wanted to surf with him again. so was i… then a perfect wave comes so i yell “go” to both of them. Father and Daughter sharing the special moment in Hawaii. this is freaking cool! great job girl! i hope your life will be full with surfing and more blue and blue Instagram photos… then i went out to the outside to surf with Yoshida-san. i told him “now it’s time to go surf Bowls.” we paddled over and scored!!! still some head high sets and perfect rights out there. so stoked! good wave, good life… one of the biggest sets came and one of my friends yelled “go kirby!” and when one of the boys yells go, i’m automatically going! a perfect Bowls left ride… it was time to go in and we rode the last one together. all the way in…thank you Yoshida-san for the wonderful morning. so happy to surf with you and your beautiful daughter. and so happy to see the special relationship you guys have. totally amazed…
after this, Yoshida-san took a nap and i took off for 2 more amazing surf sessions. averaging 3 rounds a day in the hot sun is super fulfilling, but when i get home at night, i look in the mirror and ask myself “how the heck do you do that???” and i’m so dark that i can only see my teeth!!! haha.