want to thank Hattori-san for the gifts from Kyoto! 
and want to thank Seira-chan for the gifts from Tokushima!
and also for the snacks for Mateus. he’s going to love it! 
i have to add one more person in my Top 10 calm people list. Matsuda-san just started surfing and i don’t understand how she could be so calm??? the waves were pretty wild this morning but she was so cool and smiling the whole way…
calm and happy is a great combination while riding the oceans swells…
so i’m guessing if you can be this calm in the ocean you hardly know, you must be very calm out of it too? i’m pretty sure that’s a fact… 
thank you Matsuda-san for the calm early morning surf. i hope you made your flight and had a great sleep back to Japan. keep on surfing and keep on calming…
it’s been the hottest summer i’ve ever experienced in Hawaii. i don’t remember when every single day was 35 degrees C or about 100 F. my body is totally burnt…
spent a wonderful time this afternoon with Papa Hattori-san and 16 year old son Jun-kun. more photos coming tomorrow…
Seira-chan was out longboarding and doing it very well. i’m totally amazed how this girl is progressing. she looks more comfortable than majority of the people out there. and it’s only been 2 days…
before surf, i was craving pizza, but then after we smelt all the barbecuing going on at the beach, we decided to have our own bbq…
surf and bbq? yeah, this is surfers style that every surfer loves… want to wish Seira-chan a Happy 20th Birthday today! wish you a wonderful year ahead with all your dreams coming true…
recently, i’ve been thinking so much about the fight i saw at the beach the other day. it was so cool that i was actually trying to plan one of my own. haha. so i had to sit down tonight with a glass of whisky and calm down. i know i would be disappointing a lot of people if i did that so now i’m back to normal and Intact…
