6×3=Sunburn

227

 Round 1:  Seira-chan @ Bowls.  good practice, good riding, and good waves… if you can turn a longboard as good as this, you will be ripping a shortboard no problem.   all we did today was practice for the contest that’s happening on Monday.  it’s the Duke Festival in Waikiki!!!  i’m pretty sure Seira-chan will do good! Round 2:  Oshima-san and Renta-kun @ Bowls.  too many good photos that i will post very soon… Round 3:  Hattori-san at Bowls.  high tide, long ride, and sunset… i’ve been waiting and waiting to get a photo of Hattori-san cross stepping and i finally got it on his last day!   this is a very cool photo!  surfed into sunset… good to see my friends Russ out there.  we’ve been friends since 12 years old and this is one of the guys that taught me how to “don’t walk away from anyone no matter how big they are, just fight him, beat him up, and run away.”  haha.  Russ in one of the nicest guys you will ever meet but if you get him mad, you better run for your life.   i’ve seen him in action many times before and it wasn’t a pretty ending for the other guy… last wave for Hattori-san.  he caught 25 waves today so that means he rode over a hundred waves this week!!!  that’s crazy…i don’t think there is anyone else on the island that spent more time in the ocean than me this Summer.  again, i spent 3 rounds and well over 6 hours today in the hottest Summer we’ve ever seen.  tomorrow will be the same thing so if you don’t get replies from your texts and emails, please understand…  i’m going to sleep after i sing Happy Birthday again to Matues….  goodnight….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide