there is a healthy shop right down my street that i pass every single day. this morning, i decided to start off my day healthy… a Molokai smoothie and avocado kale taco…
this meal was so healthy that i was still super hungry when i finished. haha. so i basically paid $17 for a snack…
then met Seira-chan down in Waikiki. i took her past the security up to my secret spot. from here, you can see everything!
i use to sit up here during contests and count waves. then i’d go down, surf my heat, and come back up before my next heat. nobody else knew where i was. haha…
welcome to the Duke’s Ocean Fest! there was a rumor yesterday that one girl came all the way from Japan to surf this contest. yeah, that girl was Seira-chan!
i think one of my friends went down early in the morning and set up a tent for us. haha. we were so lucky to have front row shade all day!
right when we got there, the foiling division went out. this was the final and all the best foilers on the island were in it. i was pretty exited to watch the level everybody is at. but in my mind, i kind of knew who would win…
yup, the oldest guy in the division won! i knew that experience will pay off today because nobody surfed Queen’s more than this man. congratulations Leleo Kinimaka for conquering all the young boys! i was so happy to see that!
then it was young Seira-chan’s turn. all i told her to do was catch a lot of waves, have fun, and DON’T FALL!!! and because this girl listens to everything, she did that and advanced to the FINALS!!!
gosh, i’d be nervous if i was a young girl surfing a contest in Hawaii against Japanese women that live here and surf every day… i couldn’t believe how aggressive everybody was!!! i was watching in my binoculars laughing so loud. the women were more aggressive than the men!!! haha…
in the water is aggression which is ok, but out of the water is happiness like this. congratulations to all the Japanese women for an amazing performance today!
and thank you Shiho-chan for always being so sweet to my friends. you put on a great contest today!
the awards ceremony photos coming tomorrow. it’s not even dark but it’s time for bed. goodnight…
