How to Surf: Watch and Learn

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the swell didn’t get at big as it was supposed to, but it was big enough for all the rippers to be surfing at the best spot on the South Shore, which was Bowls!!!

Greg Nakamura catches more waves than any one else out there.  always at the right spot…

good to see Mickey Bruneau out there.  super cool guy i’ve known since he was 15 years old.

seen Kahea Hart do a pretty nice off the lip.  this is how you want it to look like from the back.

longboard chicks out enjoying the long walls.

Makua Rothman snapping it back.

than it was Seira-chan’s turn.  it was her first experience at real Bowls and it was really hard to catch a wave with all the aggressive guys out.  but she did good!

if you watch how the Professionals surf Bowls, you will learn a lot.  watch where they catch the wave from, watch how the set up for their first bottom turn, and watch how they attack the sections.  it looks easy but it’s actually pretty hard…

then interpret everything and repeat it.  Go-Seira-chan!

i was riding behind just watching how beautiful this wave was.  it was a perfect wave at Bowls for a perfect turn.

i wasn’t yelling anything from behind because everything was looking super good.

this is where you have to make the spit second decision on where to hit the lip.  timing is everything.

hit it now!!!  good job Seira-chan!  i know it was frustrating at times dealing with the crowd this morning.  please don’t get discouraged because i deal with that everyday.  haha.  just go out, keep calm, and Mother Nature will send waves to you.  and if that doesn’t happen, you can have all mine.  see you tomorrow morning for another aggressive session.  in the end, it will make you a stronger and better surfer…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide