for the past week, we’ve been working on how to flow. and for those of you who don’t know, the positions of your arms is everything. most surfers keep their arms low and that’s totally going against flow. when you raise your leading arm up like this, your weight shifts to the back foot, you shoulders follow, and everything else will follow. so when i’m watching Seira-chan figuring it out this morning, i was very happy. 
see how everything is following her left arm? and see the spray coming off the rail? this is perfect technical surfing. 
and since Seira-chan is listening and progressing, i let her ride one of my magic short boards. so from now, she will progress faster than anyone out there. 
i was watching her doing off the lips all morning long. it was so beautiful. good job girl!
when Mateus and i rode the airplane, he couldn’t wait to eat the peanut butter cookies. i told him to wait because we didn’t have any water and i knew his mouth would get dry. he didn’t listen and ate cookie after cookie and couldn’t stop. then before we even took off, he said “Unko, i need water.” haha… this kid is funny.
since everybody has a camera these days, rare moments like this are getting captured. unbelievable! 
and to be a surfer in a situation like this is a dream come true. little scary, but so freaking beauty…
and now that the waterproof cameras are getting better too, you can really understand why every surfers ultimate dream is to get barreled like this. 
as for me, i’m taking a vacation later this year and this time, i’m going to time it perfectly. so for now, i’m not looking for wave forecasts because it’s way too early. instead, i’m looking at tides charts because i’m surfing and foiling. can’t wait…
