good evening. hope you had as much as a wonderful day as i did. finally got to surf a real session since my eye surgery. went out to kaisers and the waves were pretty fun. 2′ barrels in the inside bowl. my eye is still sensitive and red but i think i can see better than i use to be able to. right after i caught my first wave, i felt like a kid again… can’t wait to surf again tomorrow….
ok, most of my friends are younger than me. so i’m the old school guy. but not today. i felt young again so i started acting young. i got this look from garut.. what’s up homies…[:?????$B!x(B???:]
i keep on telling my japanese friends not to stand up on the reef. i’ve been telling them over and over for years and years. but today, i wish somebody told me the same thing. i stood up on the reef and i’m paying for it now….
and last, the colors of hawaii. have a wonderful evening…
**by the way, the only japanese surfer left in the sunset pro is izuki tanaka. he’s in the 4th round that should wrap up tomorrow….
