Another Journey

284

well, this past 3 weeks felt like 3 years. had such a great time doing same things, and different things. even though i’ve been so busy, i guess i can’t complain about this wonderful life i have. as i get older, i can feel myself getting wiser. i’m happier, i’m smarter, and i’m enjoying life a lot more than i did. on my last indonesia trip, somebody asked me “how come you think everything is wonderful, beautiful, and the best? if it’s the best, what could be better? is it an american thing?” i was surprised when asked. i answered to him but i want everybody to know why i look at life in the way i do. first, life is short. it could end tomorrow. live the moment, the moment is now. second, life is beautiful, if you don’t realize that, why are you living? third, it’s not an american thing, it’s my way and a positive way to look at things. every sunrise impresses me, every sunset soothes me, and every person on this earth inspires me in some way. life is beautiful and once you figure that out, nothing can bring you down. but until then, it takes time, patience, and experience. it’s never to late to enjoy this beautiful world with beautiful people!

traveling VIP style is cool. no waiting, no lines, and no bullshit. i’m starting to like to travel this way because the less time i wait around, the more time for me to have fun. i use to ride crappy dangerous ferries, long scary car rides, and lots of troubles getting to an isolated island in indonesia. now? i can get there in 1 hour.

before, i’d have to spend hours everyday and spend lots of money finding the perfect wave on any given day. now days, i make one phone call and i’m at the right spot 100% of the time. this typhoon season was one of my best because i spend only 5 days or so chasing them and everyday single day was magical! wonderful, and beautiful!
i’m leaving back to hawaii tomorrow and it’s back to reality. going back to my routine daily life of sleeping early, waking up at 5 am, and maximizing 100% of my precious days. see you soon! aloha!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide