Hawaiian Sequence

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it’s my goal to teach someone to be able to paddle out to any spot in the world and be calm and comfortable.  it doesn’t matter how big or what the conditions are, you just have to adjust to the situation.  pretty easy to do if you’re calm, and impossible to do if you’re not.  Seira-chan is progressing pretty fast in any type of conditions…   gosh, it’s so cool to watch flawless surfing. this is where you want your arms.  and this is how bent you want your knees.  all the power is going to come off the rail if you push with your back foot.    yes, keep both knees bent at all times.  if you over extend it, you will lose speed and power… and the most important thing to remember is to enjoy the ride like this!  i see some surfers trying to kill the wave, but i encourage flowing with it.  a perfect example of how to smile and flow.  good job Seira-chan! on the opposite extreme, local boy Lance Hookano likes to kill the wave.   so if you see him coming at you like this, you better paddle away as fast as you can. Lance is an expert surfer so i trust him 100% that he won’t hit me.  so i just have to stick my camera up and he will adjust his maneuver to get the shot.good ripping Lance.  no smiles here…  haha…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide