so happy to surf with Yamada-san again! super calm and cool man that’s been surfing since he was 20 years old. 
now he’s 65 years old and inspiring us all. just another example of enjoying life to the fullest…
Yamada-san never really liked to go backside until today. super smooth surfing and using the rail so good.
i’d say he caught about 25 waves this morning. so much energy and so much stoke!
then went to my new secret spot for the best sandwich you can ever imagine. thank you Yamada-san for inspiring all us surfers that want to surf their whole life too…
then went down to Hawaiian Airlines to pick up my precious cargo…
yeah! my new foil has arrived!!! 
then back out for an afternoon surf with Nanami-san. to be honest, i didn’t think she would make it out because the waves were big! but after 30 minutes of dodging about 50 waves, she finally made it out…
her son Gavin’s been living the Hawaiian dream life and going to college here. i remember when i was doing that too. 
Gavin told me “I’m very impressed” about Seira-chan. so am i…
thank you Nanami-san for the gifts. honey strawberry for breakfast.
and this cool Vail custom hat for the sun. see you boys and girls tomorrow! it’s going to be bigger and better!
