i had a surfer from Japan yesterday that didn’t want to be identified because he’s not supposed to be here. it was his first trip to Hawaii. he went surfing the day before at crowded Waikiki and only caught a couple waves. his image of surfing and Hawaii was pretty bad… so when he came to me, yesterday, i gave him a few tips on the beach, and more in the water. each wave i was teaching him how to improve his surfing skills. he caught perfect wave after wave and paddle back out smiling. he was super stoked and so was i…
in Japan, nobody surfs when the waves get big because you can’t get out. but if you know how to dive under a wave like this, it’s pretty easy to get out at some of the biggest waves in the world. i taught him how to do it and he made it out every single time, even when overhead waves were crashing down on him. after our session, he told me “omg, when i woke up this morning, i told myself i would never come to Hawaii again. but now, i’m coming back for sure.” that’s what i love to hear….
recently, i can’t find Seira-chan because she blends in with the locals. can you find her? haha…
i drove home and seen this Lexus that was strange. the front wheels and the back wheels were not aligned. it looked like it was floating sidewards. probably got into a major accident and got repaired the wrong way. and the driver probably has no idea. haha…
when i go to Waikiki, i love to people watch. this guy will never ever catch a wave like this. it’s impossible like this…
Toda-san is getting so good in foiling that i don’t even want to watch him anymore. haha. if you teach someone how to do something and they can do it better and faster than you did? that sucks… now i’m going to teach Matsu so he can get better than Toda-san. haha…
