everybody was saying today that the waves were junk. the reason it’s not perfect like the other days is because there is a little cross wind swell affecting it. that’s why the intervals of the waves are so close to each other. so on days like today, you have to surf it differently…
the second wave is actually better because the first wave makes the ocean smooth like this. Nakagami-san knew which one to take…
and when you have smooth waves like this, you can do smooth turns…
yes, we are practicing the cutback and this is how it’s done…
Tatsu-san is learning about surfboards now so that’s why he’s riding a different board everyday.
and when you ride one of my magic ones, your life will never be the same…
cool to get a visit from a turtle while waiting for a wave…
than Nakagami-san jumped on my magic board and surfed like magic.
thank you boys for the Boot Camp session. each day we progress and each day life gets better…
in Japan, nobody rides the soup like this. one reason is because they don’t know how. and another reason is because they don’t have the right board. but when you know how and have the right board, you can actually do cutbacks in the soup. yeah, about 4 cutbacks like this per wave. why not?
2 guys in a bar. one guys looks at another guy in a way he didn’t like. they go outside and one guys shoots the other guy. one guys is dead, and the other guy will go to jail. was it worth it? welcome to Ala Moana Shopping Center…
as for me, i’m all about peace. i don’t want to shoot anybody, or i don’t want to be shot. i just want to enjoy life like this and appreciate nature to the fullest. so in the future, you won’t find me living on Oahu. i’m already looking for somewhere else to live in peace…
