Top Priority: My Baby. Yes, my boat.
Aloha from Hawaii!
wow, i had a great flight back home. slept for 5 hours, got off the
plane and surfed 4′ bowls with not too many people out. as i was
paddling out, i realized that “it’s always summer here in hawaii!” the
water is warm, the sun is out, and the surf is up. after my first wave,
it felt good to be back home. big north/west swell next week coming.
first one of the year. getting excited!
i have so many things to get done in this next week. better get going.
hope you you’re having a wonderful day!
oh, the most important thing is getting my boat back in the water. it’s
getting custom made for diving and should be done by monday. stay tuned.
also, did i tell you i got a new chick? she’s the cutest thing ever,
super nice, and super sweet.
