Thank you Papa!

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so happy to see this wonderful Papa and Daughter back in Hawaii.  and this morning the waves were perfect for them!

Papa Kitahama-san’s been practicing a lot since we surfed 2 years ago.  and it showed in his confidence, and his surfing.  he caught so many good waves!

Lisa-chan surfed really good too.  she’s only 14 years old and loving life.

i told Lisa-chan, “your Papa is like a kid!  he’s so energetic and enjoying the ocean so much!”  she said, “my Mama thinks he’s a kid too.”  haha..

i always thought kids are supposed to have more fun, but i’m pretty sure that wasn’t the case today.

Kitahama-san practicing the cross step too.  i was riding on the side enjoying every second.

then i finally got the shot!  Daughter and Papa sharing a wave in Hawaii!  i’m so happy!!!

2 years ago we were eating pho, Lisa-chan told me she wanted to be a Doctor. this year, she told me she wants to become a Veterinarian or Author?  huh?  i’m curious what she will want to become next time i ask her.  haha.  but what ever it is, she’ll do fine!  after our conversation, i told her to look at her Papa and say thank you.  thank you for sending her to English school, thank you for bringing her to Hawaii, thank you for lunch, and thank you for being a great Papa.  she doesn’t realize it now, but when she gets older, she will understand how kind and supportive her parents are.  and it’s never to early to start thanking them…

right when Seira-chan and i pulled up to the beach, a huge storm came!  it was freaking so beautiful!!!  hardly anyone was out, and you couldn’t even see Diamond Head!

but when you’re calm and confident like Seira-chan, you can ride anything in any condition.  that’s a sign of a good surfer that knows how to connect with the sea.  good job girl!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide