gosh, everybody tells me i’m lucky. the whole time we were in the philippines, there was no waves in japan. and in the philippines when there are no typhoons, the waves are supposed to be flat. well, it was anything but flat. and now i’m back in japan and look what’s coming. typhoon 15….. i still got to take my boards out of my bag but i’m ready to go. hopefully more barrels to come… and for all of you who i’m supposed to meet this week, sorry. waves coming. i know you understand that my life revolves around the surf and if you don’t, your not my friend. haha… just joking. but i got to surf as much as i can now so when i get old and am sitting down on the deck of my big house overlooking the ocean somewhere in paradise, i can look back with no regrets and can say “been there, done that”….. until then, i’m going surfing…. see ya….
