Surf, Aina, and Treasure…

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 so happy to see Oshima-san back in Hawaii.  and so happy to see him surfing so good!   i had my foil so i could see everything!  look how beautiful this wave is!   Oshima-san was surfing really good today.  he’s connecting to the ocean and loving the rides.  such a pleasure to see him ripping… i’m loving the rides too!  haha… i can’t believe we started off on the 11’0 longboard, and now we’re short boarding together!!! i drove past the Aloha Aina event and couldn’t believe how many people were there!  there must have been over 20,000 people and i’ve never seen a march through Waikiki like that in my life!  i had chicken skin watching it… then had to do some work on Mayuki so took her out and did some snorkeling first.  so happy to see the turtles swimming so freely!    it was late in the evening so the turtles were sleeping.  so cool to watch them being so calm.  good thing i took my spear because this Mu’u swam by me.  then he tried to swim away so i speared him in the butt.  dinner for 2!   then a barracuda was trying to watch me from far away.  he shouldn’t have come that close because now he’s dinner too… then went back to enjoying the turtles.   it’s crazy how unpredictable the ocean can be.  i didn’t expect to see or get anything today but i came up with dinner and treasure.  so happy!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide