Textbook Surfing

192

 gosh, i seemed like our Big Island trip was so long ago.  already i want to go back!!!

 the protectors on the Mauna are still there protecting what they believe in.  i respect that a lot…

 i saw these gloves on the bench at Kewalo’s.  i thought to myself how cool it would be to be able to just come in and settle arguments like this.  just put on the gloves and go for a couple rounds.  that would be awesome…

 i don’t just teach you how to stand up, i try to teach you how to stand up with style.  so yeah, i would ride along the side and coach you into looking like a better surfer.  and when you look better, you will feel better, and you will ride better.  so yeah, everything will get better… good job Laura.  this is exactly how you do it!  perfection!

 i’m trying to think about my next vacation.  swim with dolphins?  eat good food?  surf good waves?  meet friends?  or simply just sit on a balcony overlooking the Pacific Ocean sipping on a cold Big Wave beer.  such a hard decision to make.  haha…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide