it’s unbelievable how time goes by so fast. i still have my north shore guns in my garage lined up that i didn’t put away after last years season. i just kept it out instead of putting it under my house because i knew i would use it again soon, but not this soon. i’ve heard rumors that this north shore season is going to be lots of small swells. i never listen to rumors. once my favorite surf spot starts to go off, i’ll be leaving my house in the dark, get some barrels, and be back home by lunch. then go diving! haha. can’t wait for the carnival to start!!!!
after i swam out on a big 8′ backdoor day to shoot some photos, i was coming in and trying to swim between the reef because it was so shallow. i took 2 photos, this is one of them. welcome to the deadliest reef in the world! many surfers died here.
**CLICK HERE FOR 2010/2011 NORTH SHORE GLORY DAYS ARTICLE…