i’ve been teaching Tomami-san how to surf for a few years. since all her basics are perfect, it was time to teach her how to turn both ways. and on her very first wave, she turned to the right and had the wave of her life!
and always happy to see the stoke on the paddle back out.
then she started going left, then right, then both ways on the same wave. it was almost too easy for her. 
good job Tomami-san. Boot Camp Day 2 tomorrow early morning. see you!
i’d have to say that this is a surfers Million Dollar View. and when you look forward, you can soak in this place we call “paradise…”
after Tomami-san and i surfed, i went to grab my foil and started flying again. so many guys were complaining that the waves have been so small these past few days. i tell them, “it’s freaking perfect for me!” they don’t look too happy after i say that. haha…
in Hong Kong, they just sold this parking space for $1 million! unbelievable…
