Fish and Camp: Calmness is Coolness…

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 the most important thing about surfing is to keep calm.  so today’s Boot Camp was about calmness.  exactly like this…  i had my foil today so my main focus was getting Ryu-san’s foil drone shot.  this wave started out like this… then i try to get in front because this is the photo i’m looking for. and since i trust Ryu-san for not looking at me, i get even closer because i love this angle. then pass right in front.  this is where we have to trust each other.  if one of us falls, it could be dangerous. then i pass right on by and you can see a very calm man, a very good wave, and a very cool style. then i pump past him and do 5 cutbacks, pump back out into 5 waves, and then i’m totally satisfied.  that all happens in just a few minutes… good job Doctor.  i’m super proud of your calmness today.  please be ready for more Boot Camp on Wednesday… back to Molokai.  Molokai is a place where you can just be yourself.  it’s also a place where helping each other is important.  here is Takahashi-san helping Joe put up his tent.  look at that beautiful rainbow!   then Kelia comes to help out.  this is called “team work.”   i was so happy that Takahashi-san came because he can do everything i can do, plus a lot more.  so it makes my life so much easier because i can relax much more.  thank you Takahashi-san for being a good Captain, chef, and friend… Mayo-chan’s 2nd time to Molokai and i think this girl loves it.  already planning for next year…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide