the most important thing about surfing is to keep calm. so today’s Boot Camp was about calmness. exactly like this…
i had my foil today so my main focus was getting Ryu-san’s foil drone shot. this wave started out like this…
then i try to get in front because this is the photo i’m looking for.
and since i trust Ryu-san for not looking at me, i get even closer because i love this angle.
then pass right in front. this is where we have to trust each other. if one of us falls, it could be dangerous.
then i pass right on by and you can see a very calm man, a very good wave, and a very cool style.
then i pump past him and do 5 cutbacks, pump back out into 5 waves, and then i’m totally satisfied. that all happens in just a few minutes…
good job Doctor. i’m super proud of your calmness today. please be ready for more Boot Camp on Wednesday…
back to Molokai. Molokai is a place where you can just be yourself. it’s also a place where helping each other is important. here is Takahashi-san helping Joe put up his tent. look at that beautiful rainbow!
then Kelia comes to help out. this is called “team work.”
i was so happy that Takahashi-san came because he can do everything i can do, plus a lot more. so it makes my life so much easier because i can relax much more. thank you Takahashi-san for being a good Captain, chef, and friend…
Mayo-chan’s 2nd time to Molokai and i think this girl loves it. already planning for next year…