good evening. oh my gosh!!! what an awesome day on the north shore. i left at dark and i was actually a little nervous pulling up to backdoor. seen a couple barrels but a little too much backwash. so i headed up to v-land and that was the best spot today. 3-5′ and as good as it gets. i surfed before the sun came up and then went in to grab my camera to capture the action. check it out..
this is pete johnson, jack johnson’s older brother. i guess you can say that the johnson’s can surf….
this is my best shot today. all you young kids out there, this is james jones. big wave rider, tube rider, north shore legend. when i seen him pull into this tube with the classic 70’s style, i had chicken skin…. old school surfing never dies….
i haven’t surfed with seth for a long time. while i was traveling around the world, seth was taking his surfing to another level. gosh, i can’t wait to see how far he will go in his surfing career…
michael ho. another legend doing what he was doing 40 years ago…. this shot is sick!! dragging his hand to stall in the tube? sick!!!
kelia got much better in surfing too. she went outside of me when i was taking this photo. then the wave hit me in the head and there went my vonzipper glasses. shit!!! i’m still kind of bummed out….
and last, thanks to the movie blue crush. there are now many many girls surfing these days. but nobody’s complaining…
