Double Sweet B-Day

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 spent the sunset session with Takahata-san.  we did some Boot Camp training until the sun went down… imagine me taking off behind, riding, and yelling!  haha…  such a sweet wave… then i saw the set of the day coming so i started yelling “GO!!!!”  Takahata-san took off in the golden light, and looked down the endless wall… as he passed by me, i thought to myself “wow, this guy surfs so good!  it must feel so good getting off the airplane from Japan earlier in the day, then surfing the first Hawaiian sunset with a magical wave like this.”  i think that’s awesome!   we left the parking lot at dark and couldn’t have been more satisfied…  see you this weekend for more Boot Camp drills!   when i was in my 20’s, i use to celebrate my birthday in Japan, then fly back to Hawaii the same day and celebrate it again.  so yeah, i had 2 birthday parties.  so when Mai-chan celebrated her birthday in Australia, then flew that day to Hawaii and celebrated it here, i thought that was pretty funny.  Happy Birthday again girl! then we celebrated it again in the ocean.  so that’s 3 times!  haha… thank you Mai-chan for the Byron Bay cookies.  you were right!  it’s better than the Cookie Corner cookies.  so sweet…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide