i’m so happy to be back home. i only was gone for 2 days but i’m fully reset, and fully ready to get wet. this evening the waves were so good!!!
picked up Renta-kun and had a blast! super strong kid that’s loving his Hawaiian lifestyle…
his friends call him the Japanese Monster. the reason is because he’s strong, and good in everything he does. i felt his legs today and it was like a rock! and he’s only getting bigger and more confident…
i always tell Renta-kun not to look at me but he always does. and i don’t mind it at all. haha.
good surfer, good smile, and good young man…
just from being away from the ocean for 2 days, i really missed it. i just love this feeling of looking down the barrel. so peaceful, and enjoyable…
when i was at the airport, i saw this group of girls getting briefed by their teacher. he said “when you girls go to Hawaii, please be careful. i thought that was pretty sad because i’d never thought this day would come where Hawaii becomes this dangerous. sad, but this is the reality. so yes girls, don’t leave your hotel with your nice watches, jewelry, or designer bags. you are just asking for trouble. leave your hotel with a t-shirt and slippers and nothing will happen to you. simple…
