Red Summer

277

 all morning, it was raining and super windy.  so when i picked up this wonderful couple, they asked me if the weather was going to clear up.  i told them “this is Hawaii, it can change so fast.”  so paddling out, it was still dark, but once you’re in the water, who cares right?   Hanafusa-san started off walking the board perfectly.  wind, rain, clouds, and it still looks so beautiful!   then Shuka-san went next.  smiling and enjoying the ride.  after this wave, she said “shiawase.”  that means happiness… then the sun peaked out and the rainbow showed up!  no rain, no rainbows right?   i love stormy days like today because nobody wants to surf.  it’s empty and when you’re out there alone enjoying something like this, it’s unforgettable.   we keep on surfing and surfing.  and the rainbow didn’t go away for 2 hours!  Hanafusa-san loving the rainbow ride… after my 2 days in Japan, i feel reborn again!  so yeah, i’m probably feeling just as excited as everybody who comes to Hawaii to surf with me.  happiness plus happiness equals a pure happiness.  add a rainbow and this is a dream… husband and wife coming to Japan and enjoying the ride, the stoke, the moment, and the rainbow.  these 2 caught over 40 waves total this morning.  it was just us and any wave we wanted… Shuko-san surfed perfectly.  look how beautiful this is! they wanted to eat burgers, so we went to Teddy’s Burgers!  the juiciest burger in Hawaii.  thank you guys for the amazing morning… then i went back out this afternoon with Ogawa-san.  i knew the waves were still going to be perfect, but i didn’t know that nobody would be out on this beautiful Sunday afternoon.  i hope it rains tomorrow too!  haha…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide