good afternoon, just got back from a surf at bowls. the waves were fun and not too many people were out. the weather is nice now as it cleared up. i got to get packing before i miss my flight… see ya..
i went to tahiti about 15 years ago with shuji kasuya and mar ono for a surfing world article. ever since then, i always wanted to go back. well, now i got the chance to go again and i’m so excited that i’m going to piss in my pants. the golden opportunity came up and i’m taking it. for the next 7 days, i’m going back in time to visit what hawaii must have looked like 80 years ago. we’re island hopping and this time, i got my camera….
in a week from today, i should have taken about 5000 photos. well, got to get to the airport before i miss my flight. have a nice day….
**and last, i’ve been throwing away such good photos trying to clean up my computer library. look at these photos of huge pipe last winter i shot from the water. i remember swimming out from the beach that day thinking to myself “what the hell i’m a doing?” yeah, it was 15′ and freaking crazy. surfing it is pretty hard. swimming out there with no board is completely nuts…. check out this gallery before it’s all gone.. deleted forever….
