last night i get a text from one of my friends. he gave me the surf report for the East side so i made sure i got out there before the sun rose. so yeah, i woke up at 4am and left my house right after 5am. super excited for something new!
when i got to the beach, i couldn’t believe how beautiful the sunrise was!!! and the waves were super beautiful too!
yoga is not only about body, it’s also about mind. it’s something that can calm me, and it’s something i do every morning. whether it’s in a room, or on the beach, you just have to connect your body with your mind. and when you can do that, life will be much better…
even thought i thought i surfed every single wave on this island, i’m finding out i was wrong. the foil has brought me to waves i’d never thought was there. so this morning, it was a new experience for me and i loved it. i thought i went on a surf trip to some exotic destination far away. but this one was only $10 of gas and 30 minutes away from my house. lucky me…
when i picked up Renta-kun for our afternoon session, he told me that his ankle was sore from playing basketball. i told him “don’t worry, it won’t hurt once you get into the water.” after we got out, i asked him if his ankle still hurts. he told me “oh, i forgot about it.” haha. The Ocean Fixes Everything!
the Pipeline Masters was off today, but tomorrow is looking 50/50 that it will be on. then Tuesday and Wednesday 100% for sure as a huge swell is on the way! Go Seth Moniz!!!
