this is absolutely my favorite street to take every morning. i can see the waves, i can see Molokai, and i can see my dreams…
this morning, i could even see Lanai! the air was crisp, chilled, and i knew the waves were going to be good!
when you pull up to Diamond Head expecting small waves, it’s a treat to see something like this. line after line of perfect waves. and it’s already December?? it was a brand new South/West swell and the best Diamond Head i’ve seen all year.
when i got out, it was uncrowded, doubling up, and even barreling. a couple of my friends that surf out there every single day said “wow, this is as good as it gets!” i agree…
foiled and didn’t want to go in. watching the sun rise and flying like a bird is something so surreal. i was a very happy bird this morning! 
then came home and lifted heavy rocks. we’re building a new wall so we had to gather these big rocks. such a good workout! 
then ate a custom pizza for lunch. very juicy and very delicious…
anyway, Pipeline Masters is probably 100% ON tomorrow morning at 8am. i’m getting up early and heading out there to cheer on Seth Moniz! the waves should be big and powerful. can’t wait…
