2019 Pipeline Masters Main Round 1

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woke up super early and headed to the Pipeline Masters before the traffic and panic.  these are the worlds best surfboards.  a dream quiver…lots of people showed up for the first day.  it was a perfect beach weather!Seth Moniz getting ready for his Round 1 heat… Rainos, Tony, and Micah are the top at the Billabong House.  you can call them family, security, and support…i still can’t believe how calm Seth is.  it’s like he’s paddling out for a free surf on a regular day.  but today was no regular day and i was more nervous than him.  haha…Kelia and Kaira wishing Seth luck before he paddled out.  and so did this bodyboarder kid…  Seth went out and dominated his heat.  placed 1st and tomorrow is Round 2.  i can’t wait!i got stuck in major traffic on the way home.  i was grouchy and frustrated because it took me so long to get back to town!  anyway, i sent a text to a new arrival “hey, do you want to surf this evening?”  i got a reply “YES, PLZ!”  we paddled out to Diamond Head can surfed the sunset.  we had good waves, good vibe, and a good time.  i left my house this morning at dark, and i got home tonight in the dark.  tomorrow morning i’m leaving in the dark again so better go to bed.  goodnight…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide