i have the dream job to teach other people how to surf. i know the feeling and i know how it feels to ride your first wave, your best wave, your biggest wave, and your longest wave. and the thing about it is i want to be there to share it. so when i take people surfing and they tell me they caught their first wave, best wave, biggest wave, or longest wave in their life, it really makes me happy. and if none of this ever happened to you, you haven’t surfed with me yet. haha.
hiro-san and rina-san are a really nice couple. young, strong, and energetic. imagine doing a triathlon on maui, flying to oahu and surfing the next day. yes, this was the next day. if it were me, i wouldn’t be able to walk.
i was totally taken by surprise on my last visit to shikoku. hiro-san and rina-san drove from kobe all the way to ikumi beach to say hello! both of them are super stoked on surfing. and so am i. hey hiro-san and rina-san, thank you for coming to see me. see you in hawaii on the 25th! get ready to surf, surf, and surf!!!
and thank you so much for this wonderful sweet snack. i popped one in my mouth and the sweet juice squirted out. what a sweet surprise!
