The ‘LAW’ of Stress

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i ready this article about stress.  this is what it said:  “Too much, and you become overwhelmed. Too little, and you’re unmotivated.”

i think that is so true.  before i read this, i thought i had absolutely no stress.  but now that i think about it, i probably have some because i’m totally motivated to live a happier life.  so yeah, from now, i’ll take the stress and turn it into motivation!

there’s absolutely no stress when i’m seeing rainbows from the time i leave my house till the time i get home.  and absolutely no stress when i’m seeing happy surfers having so much fun in places like Shikoku, Japan.   and absolutely no stress when i’m seeing happy snowboarders having fun in Hokkaido, Japan.  my friend Mike just sent me this photo from 27 years ago.  we were at the ferry port getting ready to board an overnight ferry to Niijima Island.  we were young, crazy, and foreigners having a good time in Japan.  and at that time, Niijima was the place to be.  good waves, good vibe, and good people.  there were thousands of people on our ferry going to the same island for the same thing.  surf and party!    now 27 years later, all i want to do is go to the ocean.  surf, dive, and watch beautiful rainbows.  it’s interesting how much my life has changed.  i finally grew up!  haha…

 

 

 

 

 

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide