Nakahodo-san left today so he wanted to get a final surf this morning. that means we did 6 days of Boot Camp! longboarding, short boarding, and foiling all included. we just added the early morning dark session for a grand finale…
i think i could do this every single morning. when you hardly can see, you feel more and more connected to the ocean. it’s pretty dam cool…
then when the sun starts to peak over Diamond Head, the day begins…
the sky will turn into a painting, you’ll see the golden glow, and the priceless moment.
Nakahodo-san rode a wave, i followed him, and a minute later, the sky turned back into gray again. this was the golden one minute moment that we had all to ourselves…
then it was time to ride as many waves as possible before Nakahodo-san’s flight. this wave was going perfectly until i yelled “go right!”
then Nakahodo-san looked at me and i knew what was going to happen next. 
a magic 9’6 longboard right into my face! omg, abunai!!! luckily i blocked it and instead of going to the hospital, i safely took Nakahodo-san back to his hotel so he could get to the airport on time. we had a wonderful 6 days of Boot Camp and this calm and cool man has become even calmer and cooler…
then i went full speed to Jurassic Park and foiled! the waves were still good and i felt like a bird again. i got home at 12pm and i couldn’t believe how great my morning went. lucky we live in Hawaii…
