Diamond Head on FIRE!

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omg, i left my house early and when i passed by Diamond Head, it looked like it was on fire!!!  the sky was all lit up and it was bright red.  thank you Mother Nature for greeting us this morning with the deep red sunrise!paddled out to to Bowls and couldn’t believe how good the waves were!   seeing Jeannie Chesser in the morning always makes me happy.  we talk, we argue, and we laugh.  such a lovely lady…then it was surf time!  Nao-san aiming for the sun coming over Diamond Head.  i thought the waves were going to be small this morning but i was totally wrong.  it’s good to be wrong sometimes.  haha…glassy waves and long rides.  another day of perfect surfing…here is a perfect example of how to take off.  watch Pat smiling with his hands down below his chest ready to pop up.  it can’t get any better than this and if any one of my students is reading this, please follow Pat’s style.  after we surfed, we went for the juiciest piece of prime rib.  and we were done by 10:30am.  another amazing morning…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide