there’s this little island off japan that not too many people know about. it was 10 years ago when matsuo, matchi and i caught this little ferry over to surf this spot nobody surfed big before. the waves were 10′ solid and we just paddled out and scored. matsuo ended up getting the cover shot of surfing world. matchi and i got 2 page spreads on huge waves. and the photographer ended up buying a house on the island and now lives there. it’s amazing how one surf session can change lives….
this is the secret ferry going to the secret island. did you know that there are 100 great white shark attacks a year there? so think before going…..
old school fisherman taking care of his boat…
there’s so much history here. old japan left untouched….
there are no cars on the island and the only way to get around is by bicycle or walking. it’s such an awesome place…
and not to mention, the waves are pretty freaking good. but remember, the great white sharks are agressive…..
