it’s only the 2nd day of the year and i surfed 6 hours today! 3 rounds which started with this early morning one. lots of waves and lots of smiles on this January 2nd…
round 2 was with Ujibayashi-san. we haven’t surfed together for a while so it was fun catching up. long long rides…
it makes me so happy to see everybody getting better and better in surfing. thank you Ujibayashi-san.
round 3 was this evening. Ai-san was surfing super confident. this was her first wave and there were many many more after this…
then twin sister Megu-san surfing better too. the waves were perfect so they were showing me high levels of confidence.
Taki-san was calm and cool too. i think he rode his waves the farthest because i could barely see him after every ride.
twin sisters sharing a single wave. this is what surfing is all about!
thank you Ai-san, Megu-san, and Taki-san for the amazing sunset session. please tell Ozaki-san i said hello when you get back to Japan. hope to see you all again soon.
by the way, did you see the green flash this evening??? i saw it and it was amazing!!!
