Full Size Rainbow Day!

236

this morning Bowls was totally flat!  so i took Uehara-san to Kaisers. much more power, much more shallow, and much more locals…

it’s fun watching surfers do the rock dance.  haha.  it’s actually pretty hard to walk on these rocks if it’s your first time.

i don’t care how small Kaisers is.  if it’s breaking, it’s barreling!

it was only Uehara-san and i surfing the whole spot to ourselves.  then a canoe came out and surfed on the side.  then the rainbow came out and stayed with us the whole time.

then this girl from New York came out.  she came to Hawaii last August and never went back home.  she told me “i’m never going back home.”  haha…

this is where you take off.  it only gets shallower when you ride the wave.  and guess what?  it was high tide!

the rainbow would come and go.  and when it came, i was trying to get the perfect photo because it was Uehara-san’s first time seeing a full rainbow.  so here he is smiling the whole way!!!  got it!

then went back out this evening with Ai-san.  and guess what?  the full rainbow came back!

started off at sunrise, ended at sunset.  another gorgeous day and it’s only been the 3rd day of year!  Happy 2020!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide