Surf, Smile, Pho, Surf, Smile…

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went surfing early this morning with Imamura-san.  she was a little nervous because the waves were pretty big.  these are the kind of days you’re surfing and confidence can either go up a level, or down two levels.  haha.  and once you get your first big wave of your life, your level will go up instantly.  thank goodness!surfing and smiling at the same time means you’re having a great time!  it was totally empty again this morning.  perfect shoulder high waves and hardly anyone around?  score!  once Imamura-san got the feeling of bigger waves, surfing became so easy for her.  i was so happy to see her progress just in the 2 hours we were out.then went for a bowl of hot pho!surf, smile, and pho.  a great balance…  see you tomorrow for more Boot Camp!i asked for extra parsley today and it was excellent!  then went surfing with Mai-chan this afternoon.  yes, Mai-chan is back in Hawaii for surf, smile, and lifestyle…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide