Early Christmas in Hawaii…

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good evening. what a beautiful sunday here in hawaii. when i was flying in this morning, it was raining and looking pretty dark. then by noon, the blue sky popped out and it was paradise again. it took 5 hours to get back from tahiti and there is no time difference so it felt like coming back from the big island or something. i didn’t realize how close tahiti was so now i’m looking forward to going back there more often. just got to save some money because tahiti ain’t cheap….

i seen the christmas trees out in wallmart last week and thought it was kind of early. then today, i heard the first christmas song on the radio. christmas is a happy time in hawaii and brings people together. the best holiday of the year…

my brother and brandon went to pick opihi’s today. my brother comes home and gives me a bag, then i went up to brandon’s house this evening to practice shooting arrows and he gave me a bag too. 2 bags of opihi? i was like “shoots”… i’m stoked!!!

and this is the sunset this evening from aina koa ridge. pretty cool…

now i’m back in hawaii so the first thing i want to eat is japanese food. starting off with shrimp tempura. itakakimasu….

and last, check out our hotel pool in papeete overlooking moorea. i felt like a king staying over there….
**as for the waves here in hawaii, i heard that there was a good day at pipeline last week with 100 guys out. my friend out there called me today and told me that i missed out. after i told him i just got back from tahiti today, he said “oh sorry, you didn’t miss anything”… yeah i didn’t think so either… haha…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide